I haven’t had time to sew or post lately- graduate school & life got in the way. However, I am happy that I am past the hardest bits of this jacket. I finished pad-stitching the collar and lapel. My pad-stitching became better & more consistent toward the end of the process. It was annoying and slow at first but as I forged on, it became somewhat relaxing.
I applied twill tape to the lapel, roll-line and side front. I then fell-stitched the twill tape to the jacket. I also taped the shoulder seam, back neckline and roll-line of the undercollar.
I then hand-sewed the undercollar to the jacket back by fell-stitching.
This is now the point when the welt pockets and bound button-holes should be installed (if you want them). Yikes! I was nervous about this and did at least three test samples before tackling the real thing. Luckily, they turned out OK.
I turned the welts on the bias so I wouldn’t have to match the herringbone pattern. What a great trick! In addition, the bound button-holes were more like corded button-holes. I used a 3/16″ cord to make the button-hole lips. Here is my finished welt and bound button-holes:
Whew! I am hoping it is all downhill construction-wise from here!