McCall 6172 Jacket: Past the Hardest Bits?

I haven’t had time to sew or post lately- graduate school & life got in the way. However, I am happy that I am past the hardest bits of this jacket. I finished pad-stitching the collar and lapel. My pad-stitching became better & more consistent toward the end of the process. It was annoying and slow at first but as I forged on, it became somewhat relaxing.

Pad-stitched and Taped Jacket Pieces

Pad-stitched undercollar. Taped shoulder & roll-line.

I applied twill tape to the lapel, roll-line and side front. I then fell-stitched the twill tape to the jacket. I also taped the shoulder seam, back neckline and roll-line of the undercollar.

I then hand-sewed the undercollar to the jacket back by fell-stitching.

Attaching undercollar

This is now the point when the welt pockets and bound button-holes should be installed (if you want them). Yikes! I was nervous about this and did at least three test samples before tackling the real thing. Luckily, they turned out OK.

I turned the welts on the bias so I wouldn’t have to match the herringbone pattern. What a great trick! In addition, the bound button-holes were more like corded button-holes. I used a 3/16″ cord to make the button-hole lips. Here is my finished welt and bound button-holes:

Welt Pockets & Corded Button-holes

Whew! I am hoping it is all downhill construction-wise from here!

About Javie

I am a scientist by training but an artist at heart. Currently going to grad school for more 'practical' training. I love to sew, cook and craft so this is my journal of my more artistic experiments.
This entry was posted in McCalls, Tailoring and tagged , . Bookmark the permalink.

5 Responses to McCall 6172 Jacket: Past the Hardest Bits?

  1. Ooh this is coming together very well! I’m excited about the final product and how it looks when worn😄

  2. Pedagogue says:

    Hi Javie
    I am sewing a jacket not unlike yours. The pattern calls for fell stitch as you have done on the roll-line. I have only done felling in a run and fell seam. How do you make the fell stitch not show on the outside but still secure the tape?
    Regards
    Pedagogue

    • Javie says:

      Hi Pedagogue
      Did you pad-stitch hair canvas or did you use fusible interfacing on the collars and lapel? If you used hair canvas, you should be able to fell-stitch the twill tape to the canvas and not to the fashion fabric. If you used fusible interfacing there is another cheater tip you can use. I have also used fusible tailors tape with some success. The tape is made by HTC and is called “Fusible Tailor’s Tape, Straight Cut”. It is easier to use then fell-stitching twill-you just iron it on. I’ll post my other project that uses this technique in a few weeks after all my exams. Hope that helps!

  3. Pingback: Guest Post by The Perfect Nose & La Mia Boutique Giveaway | dashingmarmot

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