McCalls Jacket Muslin Done. Getting Ready for Pad Stitching Love

Just finished fitting my jacket muslin. McCalls 6172 is an excellent pattern. It is from Palmer/Pletsch and has many common fitting adjustments printed right on the pattern. It was relatively easy to adjust the pattern for a flattering fit. I didn’t have to make many major adjustments.

McCalls 6172 Jacket Muslin Front View

My patterns changes are below:

  1. Cut size 12 on top but cut size 10 at shoulders.
  2. Graded to size 14 at hip.
  3. Shortened sleeves by 1 5/8″
  4. Folded tuck at shoulders and took out to back princess seam. Removed excess from pattern.

In my tailoring class, we mainly followed the “custom” method from the Tailoring book. I cut different interfacing pieces than suggested in the pattern. This included interfacing for the back stay, undercollar, jacket front and side front. I then tailor basted the canvas to the fashion fabric. In preparation for pad-stitching, I marked reference lines on both the lapel and undercollar.

Back Stay Interfacing


Front and Side Interfacing

The collar was folded on the roll line, pinned to a ham and steamed to set the shape. I also gently folded and steamed the roll line on the lapel. Whew! Quite a bit of work before we pad-stitch!

Steaming undercollar on ham. What a handsome guy!


About Javie

I am a scientist by training but an artist at heart. Currently going to grad school for more 'practical' training. I love to sew, cook and craft so this is my journal of my more artistic experiments.
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