Just finished fitting my jacket muslin. McCalls 6172 is an excellent pattern. It is from Palmer/Pletsch and has many common fitting adjustments printed right on the pattern. It was relatively easy to adjust the pattern for a flattering fit. I didn’t have to make many major adjustments.
My patterns changes are below:
- Cut size 12 on top but cut size 10 at shoulders.
- Graded to size 14 at hip.
- Shortened sleeves by 1 5/8″
- Folded tuck at shoulders and took out to back princess seam. Removed excess from pattern.
In my tailoring class, we mainly followed the “custom” method from the Tailoring book. I cut different interfacing pieces than suggested in the pattern. This included interfacing for the back stay, undercollar, jacket front and side front. I then tailor basted the canvas to the fashion fabric. In preparation for pad-stitching, I marked reference lines on both the lapel and undercollar.
The collar was folded on the roll line, pinned to a ham and steamed to set the shape. I also gently folded and steamed the roll line on the lapel. Whew! Quite a bit of work before we pad-stitch!