Tailoring Class and McCalls Jacket Muslin

I just started a tailoring class and I am really excited about it! The class is taught by a lovely person from my sewing club who is also a retired sewing instructor from a local community college. I love learning new things and mastering tailoring techniques appeals to my logical analytical self. She recommended the following book as a reference and will use many of the book’s techniques in the class.

In class, we are all using the same pattern: McCalls M6172. It will be interesting to see the jacket variations as the class progresses.

McCalls M6172 Palmer Pletsch Jacket

I worked on class homework this week – the jacket muslin. I cut the pattern and used medium weight cotton twill for the muslin. The instructor recommended using heavier weight fabric for the jacket muslin and not cotton muslin because the jacket fit can be off when using a light weight fabric.

Cutting jacket muslin pieces

In class, I learned that we will use hair canvas or hymo for interfacing the jacket. The hair canvas was provided to us and is 60% wool and 40% goat hair. The instructor obtained the hair canvas from B.Black & Sons in L.A.

Hair canvas & twill tape waiting to be prepped

I had to pretreat the hair canvas and twill tape prior to the next class. I rolled the hair canvas in a damp towel from the washing machine and let it sit overnight. I then laid the hair canvas flat to dry on a rack over my bathtub. The hair canvas smelled strange (like goat??) while drying. Hopefully, since I pretreated a couple of yards, I have enough hair canvas for a few garments.

I love fabric I chose for the jacket. It is Nautica herringbone wool that I purchased from SR Harris Fabric Warehouse. It is hard to tell from the picture, but it is greyish blue and oh so soft to the touch!

Wool Herringbone fabric for jacket

Off to work on the muslin!

All images are copyright their original owners.

About Javie

I am a scientist by training but an artist at heart. Currently going to grad school for more 'practical' training. I love to sew, cook and craft so this is my journal of my more artistic experiments.
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